A miniature can be beautifully painted, but a thoughtfully finished base is often what brings the whole model together. It gives the miniature a setting, adds atmosphere and helps tell the viewer where the character or unit belongs.

The good news is that scenic basing does not need to be complicated. A little texture, a few carefully chosen colours and one or two details can transform a plain plastic base into a muddy battlefield, ruined street, rocky wilderness or overgrown forest floor.

This guide will take you through the process one step at a time. If you are also working on your first model, our beginner’s guide to painting miniatures explains preparation, priming, base colours, shading and highlighting.

What Is a Scenic Base?

A scenic base is the small environment beneath your miniature. Instead of leaving the base as plain plastic, you use texture, paint and decorative materials to create a setting that suits the model.

  • Muddy or churned earth
  • Desert sand
  • Rocky ground
  • Snow and ice
  • Forest undergrowth
  • Cobbled streets
  • Industrial flooring
  • Ruined buildings
  • Swamps, puddles or shallow water
  • An alien or fantasy landscape

The base does not need to become a detailed miniature scene of its own. For gaming models, a clear texture and a few well-placed details are often enough. The aim is to support the miniature rather than distract attention from it.

Decide on the Setting Before You Begin

Before applying anything, think about where your miniature is supposed to be standing.

A heavily armoured science-fiction soldier might suit an industrial floor, ruined city or hostile alien landscape. A fantasy warrior could be placed on a forest path, rocky mountain or broken temple floor. Historical miniatures may benefit from terrain that reflects the location and period represented.

It also helps to consider the rest of your collection. If you are basing an army or gaming force, using the same colours and materials across the models will connect them visually.

You do not have to make every base identical. Small variations in rocks, tufts and scenic details will keep the collection interesting while the shared ground colours maintain a consistent theme.

Should You Base the Miniature Before or After Painting?

Both approaches can work.

Basing before painting lets you prime the model and textured base together. This is convenient when the ground material needs to be painted from scratch. However, you will need to work carefully around the miniature’s feet.

Basing after painting gives you easier access to the model while you are painting it. It can also reduce the chance of accidentally covering the miniature with texture paste. The disadvantage is that you must take additional care when applying glue, paint and basing materials around a finished model.

A third option is to build and paint the base separately before attaching the miniature. This is useful for more elaborate projects, but you must plan secure attachment points before completing the surface.

For a straightforward first project, either of the first two methods is perfectly suitable.

What Do You Need to Make a Scenic Base?

You can create a simple base with only a few materials:

  • Texture paste, clean modelling sand or fine grit
  • PVA glue or another suitable adhesive
  • Acrylic miniature paints
  • A shade or wash
  • A drybrush
  • Tweezers or a pick-and-place tool
  • Tufts, stones or another finishing detail
  • Paper towel and a protected working surface

A cutting mat is helpful when trimming cork, plastic pieces or other modelling materials. Sculpting tools can also be useful for shaping texture paste and creating uneven ground. Our guide to essential model-making tools explains how to build a practical toolkit for these jobs.

If you use cutting tools or strong adhesives, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and work in a properly ventilated area where required. Younger hobbyists should have suitable adult supervision.

Useful Tools for Scenic Basing

Step 1: Plan the Composition

Place the miniature on the base temporarily and look at it from several angles. Think about where the model’s feet will sit and whether any scenic element could interfere with its pose.

Larger details usually look better when they are slightly offset rather than placed directly in the centre. A stone, broken wall or piece of debris can help frame the miniature, but it should not hide an important part of the model.

For gaming pieces, remember that the edge of the base must remain easy to handle and measure around. Avoid adding fragile pieces that extend too far beyond it.

Step 2: Add the Main Ground Texture

Begin with the material that will cover most of the base.

Texture pastes offer a convenient way to create soil, mud, sand and rough ground. Apply a controlled layer with an old brush or sculpting tool. Avoid covering slots, attachment points or the outside edge of the base.

You can also use clean, dry modelling sand, fine grit, cork or small stones. Apply suitable glue and remove any loose excess after it has dried.

Avoid untreated organic materials such as coffee grounds. They can retain moisture, change over time or introduce unwanted contamination. Purpose-made basing products and clean, inert materials provide a more dependable result.

Allow the ground layer to dry completely before painting. Drying time will depend on the product and thickness, so follow the instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

Step 3: Apply the Main Ground Colour

Some texture products are supplied in a useful colour, while others will need painting.

Start with a mid-tone that suits the setting. Brown works well for ordinary earth, grey for rock and rubble, sandy tones for deserts and muted green-browns for woodland ground.

Use a brush suitable for the size and texture of the base. A larger, inexpensive or older brush is often more practical than a fine detail brush for this work.

Thin the paint only enough to help it move across the texture. If it becomes too watery, it may collect in the recesses without covering the raised areas properly.

Step 4: Add Shade and Depth

Once the main colour is dry, a suitable shade or wash can settle into the recesses and make the ground look less flat.

Apply it carefully and check for large pools. If too much gathers in one area, lift the excess away with a clean, slightly damp brush.

You can use dark brown over earth, dark grey or black over stone, and green or brown shades around mossy ground. The exact colour depends on the atmosphere you want to create.

Let the shade dry completely before moving on. Drybrushing too early can disturb the surface and create a muddy finish.

Step 5: Drybrush the Raised Texture

Drybrushing is one of the quickest ways to make textured ground look convincing.

Place a small amount of lighter paint on a drybrush, then remove most of it on a paper towel. Move the brush lightly across the raised texture. The remaining paint will catch the highest areas while leaving the shaded recesses visible.

You can use one highlight or build up two progressively lighter colours. Keep the brightest colour restrained and concentrate it on the most prominent areas.

A Pro Arte drybrush or another suitable flat or rounded drybrush can make this stage easier, particularly across rocky or heavily textured surfaces. Our Pro Arte brush guide can help you choose a useful brush for this and other painting techniques.

Step 6: Add Rocks, Rubble and Scenic Details

Once the ground is established, add one or two details that support the setting.

  • Small stones or cork rocks
  • Bricks and broken masonry
  • Skulls, discarded weapons or battlefield debris
  • Wooden barrels or fuel drums
  • Broken fences and wall sections
  • Leaves, moss and static grass
  • Grass or scrub tufts

Tweezers and pick-and-place tools are useful when positioning small pieces. Test each item before gluing it down, especially if the miniature has a wide pose or flowing clothing.

Try not to fill every available space. Leaving some quieter areas around the miniature makes the important details easier to notice.

Scenic Basing Materials and Details

Step 7: Add Grass and Tufts

Tufts are an easy way to add height and colour to a base.

Remove a tuft carefully with tweezers and place it where vegetation would naturally grow. Plants often gather beside rocks, walls and recessed ground rather than appearing at perfectly regular intervals.

Many self-adhesive tufts benefit from a small amount of suitable glue for a stronger long-term hold. Follow the instructions supplied with the product.

Mixing different sizes can make a natural base more convincing. However, two or three tufts are often enough for a standard gaming miniature.

Step 8: Create Puddles and Water Effects

Clear water-effect products can be used to create puddles, streams and wet ground, but they require preparation.

Paint the area beneath the water first because the finished effect will reveal the colours below it. Darker tones can suggest depth, while green and brown colours work well for muddy or stagnant water.

Make sure there are no gaps where a liquid product could escape. Apply it in the thickness recommended by the manufacturer and allow it to cure fully. Deep effects may require several separate layers.

Vallejo Still Water is suitable for shallow water effects when used according to its instructions. It is not a substitute for every type of resin pour, so check the product guidance before attempting a deep pool.

Step 9: Clean and Paint the Base Rim

A neat rim frames the miniature and gives the project a finished appearance.

Black is a popular choice because it works with most colour schemes. Dark brown can complement natural ground, while grey may suit urban or industrial bases.

Use two thin coats if necessary and check the rim from every angle. Remove any texture paste or stray basing material that has spread over the edge before applying the final colour.

How to Match the Base to Your Miniature

A base can complement the miniature or provide contrast.

If the miniature contains cool blues and greys, warm brown or sandy ground can help it stand out. A warm red or orange model may look striking on grey rock or dark industrial flooring.

You can also repeat one small colour from the miniature on the base. For example, a green cloak could be echoed by a small patch of moss. This helps the model and setting feel connected without making them blend together.

The most important feature should still be the miniature. If the base contains numerous bright colours and large details, it may compete for attention.

Simple Scenic Base Ideas for Beginners

Muddy Battlefield

Apply earth or mud texture, paint it dark brown, add a brown wash and drybrush with a lighter soil colour. Finish with one or two tufts and a piece of battlefield debris.

Rocky Ground

Use small stones or coarse texture, paint everything dark grey and drybrush with progressively lighter greys. A restrained grass tuft will add a little colour.

Desert Base

Apply fine sandy texture, use a warm brown or ochre base colour and drybrush with a pale sand tone. Add a small stone or dry-looking tuft.

Ruined City

Combine grey texture with bricks, broken walls or scattered debris. Use dark washes and light grey drybrushing, then add rust or dust colours where appropriate.

Forest Floor

Begin with brown earth, then add small stones, leaf scatter and green or brown tufts. Varying the height and colour will prevent the ground from appearing too uniform.

Common Scenic-Basing Mistakes

Most basing problems are easy to avoid:

  • Adding so many details that the miniature becomes difficult to see
  • Using scenic pieces that are out of scale
  • Painting before the texture or glue has dried
  • Applying an excessively thick layer of texture paste
  • Allowing loose sand or grit to remain unsecured
  • Positioning fragile details where they will be damaged during play
  • Forgetting to leave secure contact points for the miniature
  • Applying deep water effects in one unsuitable layer
  • Leaving the rim untidy
  • Making every model in an army completely identical

If a base does not look right, let it dry before making changes. You can usually repaint an area, add another drybrush or cover an awkward section with a carefully placed tuft or scenic detail.

Scenic Basing for Armies and Gaming Collections

When you are working on a whole army, it helps to create a repeatable recipe.

Write down the texture, base colour, shade, highlight and tuft type used on your first model. You can then repeat the same process across the collection.

Working in small batches can save time without becoming overwhelming. Apply texture to several bases, allow them to dry and then complete each painting stage across the group.

Do not worry if the individual bases are slightly different. Natural ground is rarely uniform. Consistent colours and materials will connect the army even when the arrangement changes from model to model.

Give Your Miniatures Somewhere to Stand

A scenic base does not need dozens of materials or advanced modelling techniques. Start with one ground texture, add a shade and drybrush, then finish with a small detail that suits the miniature.

As your confidence grows, you can experiment with water, snow, ruins and more elaborate compositions. Each base is a small opportunity to give your miniature a sense of place. When you are ready to carry the same colours and textures across a complete gaming table, our fantasy tabletop scenery guide explains how to plan larger, playable landscapes.

Browse Bomran’s painting and modelling collection for basing materials, brushes, tools and scenic accessories. You can also explore our Painting & Modelling Guides for more practical help with your next hobby project.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the easiest scenic base for a beginner?

A textured earth or rocky base is an excellent starting point. Apply texture, paint it, add a wash and drybrush the raised areas. One small tuft can complete the effect.

Should I base a miniature before painting it?

You can base it before or after painting. Basing first allows you to prime everything together, while basing afterwards gives you easier access to the miniature. Choose the approach that feels more comfortable.

What glue should I use for basing?

PVA is suitable for many loose materials such as modelling sand. Super glue may be more appropriate for resin, metal or some plastic details. Always check the materials and follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

Can I use household materials?

Some clean, dry and stable materials can be used, but purpose-made basing products are generally more predictable. Avoid perishable or moisture-retaining organic materials such as coffee grounds.

How long does texture paste take to dry?

Drying time varies according to the product, room conditions and thickness applied. Check the manufacturer’s instructions and allow the material to dry completely before painting.

How do I make rocks look realistic?

Begin with a dark base colour, apply a suitable wash and drybrush with one or two lighter tones. Avoid painting every stone exactly the same colour.

How do I stop tufts from falling off?

Position them with tweezers and use a small amount of suitable adhesive if necessary. Make sure the surface beneath them is clean and dry.

Can I add water effects to a miniature base?

Yes. Paint and seal the area first, contain the liquid carefully and follow the product instructions regarding depth and drying time.

Should every model in an army have the same base?

Use the same general colours and materials, but vary the arrangement. This creates a connected army without making every base look copied.

How can I repair a damaged scenic base?

Remove loose material, repaint any exposed areas and replace damaged tufts or details. Minor repairs can often be blended into the existing texture.

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